Fitting guidelines for individuals who wish they had breasts


Not everyone was born with the look that they want. And some like to enhance or change their appearance from time to time. This post aims to help those who need to know more about choosing a bra to enhance their bust.


Take an underband measurement around the torso at the point where a bra-band sits (approximately mid way between the underarm and the bottom of the ribs). Keep the measure horizontal and very firm while taking this measurement. This is the “starting point” for a bra size. Round up to an even number (if odd) to find the bra size. The cup size will depend on the amount of padding used to fill the cup.


Try the bra on. Fasten the bra on the loosest eye possible. Ensure that the band is straight across the back and not riding up. To check the fit of the bra start by ensuring that the band/wire is placed directly against the chest wall. Moving to the back check the firmness of the band by putting two fingers under the band and pulling gently. There should be no more than 1cm of movement of the band away from the back. Shoulder straps should be firm, not too tight, not too loose. Side seams should be centered under the armpit, if they are forward you need a larger cup, if they are backward you need a smaller cup. Where the cup sits under the arm, if it is too high choose a smaller cup, likewise if it is too low choose a larger cup.


How a bra fits and the style of the bra affect the comfort of the bra. The most common bra styles are:-

Balconette (balcony) –

covers 50-75% of a full cup style bra, the straps are usually wider set on the shoulders, so for those with narrow or sloping shoulders the style won’t be suitable

Full cup –

great for larger, fuller breasts. The cup encloses the entire breast giving all found support. Straps fit above the middle of the breast.

Minimiser –

redistributes the breast across the chest wall, making the breasts flatter.

Moulded –

gives a smooth look under clothing. The seamless cups are moulded into a rigid shape which produces a more symmetrical appearance. They also add a layer of padding to the overall look and size.

Padded –

have padding in the cup to give extra shape. The padding may be across the whole of the breast, or just in selected zones to give extra shaping, e.g. push up effect. Some have removeable padding, so you can choose when to use the extra padding, depending on what you’re wearing and how you want to look.

Plunge –

this is where the bra cups meet at the band of the bra, below the nipple area, rather than higher up. These bras are ideal for wearing with low cut tops, with many styles designed to give maximum cleavage. This style of bra is not designed for maximum support or security.

T-shirt –

these give a smooth shape under t-shirts. They are generally either moulded, or padded, as described above, but are always seamless.

Sport –

these are designed to stop breasts from bouncing during exercise. There are different types of sports bra, some use compression, others use firm fabric and structure to give support.

Soft cup –

these are bras without any wires. They use the structure of the bra, usually with the fabric and where the seams are created, to give the support and shape. There are many excellent soft cup bras, some that are light to medium support and others more supportive and fuller in the cup

Multiway –

these have straps that can be used under all sorts of outfits. Not common in larger cup sizes due to the lack of support for fuller breasts without the shoulder straps and a fuller cup. If you have a favourite bra, it is possible to attach an extra strap to the existing bra band to extend it into a backless bra.


Take a look at the soft cup and mastectomy bras available at bras4all. Soft cup bras are structured and crafted to support the breast without the use of wires. Mastectomy bras have a lining or pocket built into the bra, into which a breast form or prosthesis can be inserted. The pocket holds the prosthesis in place within the bra so that the wearer doesn’t have to worry about it moving out of place or coming out of the bra. Both of these styles are available from bras4all.

If you use the code YO11JSP you will receive your order post free and I will receive a small commission as a thank you for directing you to the site.


How you look in your bra depends on the style you choose. Different styles give different shapes and will suit some outfits better than others. You may also find some bra accessories helpful in achieving your desired look. You can see what sort of accessories are available in my other post on this blog… Useful accessories for bras



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